3Q. the joy of life

When you surf the ultimate expression of the art is to ‘ride the tube’. You do this by waiting for a wave, paddling out in the deep. Then when the right waves comes along you paddle out to catch the crest thereof, and then ride on the wave. The bigger the wave, the better the ride. If you are an expert you will then manoeuvre yourself and the board into the curl of the wave; and thus ride ‘the tube’. A good surfer will ride the wave out to its extreme, until it spends itself on the shore, travelling the whole distance of the wave inside ‘the tube’. This is the ultimate thrill in surfing. The joy of life, is living your life like this…