As a new day dawns the Ocean calls,
sand lapped by the warm caress
as waves ripple in the breeze,
come with me swim out to its
deepest depths - take the plunge
arms outstretched - board in hand
carrying us into the great unknown,
breakers roll excercise their power
wave upon wave wild - free,
finally we reach our destination
as the rise elevates me to greater heights,
adrenalin takes me to another level a rush expand of energy, then chased by the power of my pursuer
foaming - rushing when engulfed,undulating - appearing to swallow me whole,
life or death the pipeline carries,
silence washes over me
moving with smooth continuous motion,
gradually changing I gleam sunlight no more,
then as I reach the pinnacle -
ripples of light flicker
sinking into resolve
my watery grave awaits me.
http://www.jackboulware.com/featured/big-wave-surfing-at-cortes-bank
http://uk.bing.com/videos/search?q=What+are+the+biggest+surf+waves+in+th...

Comments
Highhat | June 25, 2011 - 15:06
This is very good Jenny and the article was very interesting. I love to see surfing movies but it is really dangerous. You seem to have got the atmosphere captured in your poem. Must be great to be such a daredevil. Personally I am afraid of big waves but I do like the surf and the beach life- well I used to anyway.
;)Pia
Silver Spun Sand | June 25, 2011 - 15:10
I don't think 'big wave' surfing is for me,
Jenny;-) Your poem is about as near as you'd catch me to a roller as enormous as the one in the picture.
Much enjoyed your exhilarating poem and then was thrown right back down into the waves for the final stanza. An effective, chilling ending, indeed.
Tina
seashore | June 25, 2011 - 15:19
I enjoyed this a lot, Jenny
skinner_jennifer | June 25, 2011 - 15:26
Hi Pia,
I too love to watch surfing movies, I always remember
the film, 'Point Break,' with Patrick Swayze and
Keanu Reeves, when Patrick rides the big one to his
death.
I could never actually surf standing up, but I used
to surf bathe in Cornwall, it was really great fun.
Thankyou for reading my story, glad you could capture
the atmosphere, even though the ending was sad.
Jenny.
skinner_jennifer | June 25, 2011 - 16:07
Hi Tina,
don't worry, you're not the only one who wouldn't
go near a big wave. It's fun to watch, but far too
dangerous.
Anyway glad you enjoyed the poem and thankyou so much
for reading.
Jenny.
skinner_jennifer | June 25, 2011 - 16:08
Hi seashore,
glad you enjoyed this piece, much appreciate you
reading, thanks for the comment.
Jenny.
Highhat | June 25, 2011 - 16:16
By the way Jenny- in surfer's terminology it is called a pipeline and not a tube.I remember the film with Patrick Swayze- what a wave!!
;)Pia
skinner_jennifer | June 25, 2011 - 16:55
Ha! ha, pia, thanks for letting me know, I think I'll
change the name in the poem.
Cheerz! and yes what a wave that was!
Jenny.
maisie | June 25, 2011 - 16:58
i surely hope its not a water grave for you :)
good poem ;)
skinner_jennifer | June 25, 2011 - 18:00
Hi maisie,
eeks! I sure hope not either, not that I ever go
surfing anymore. It's an effort to get me in the
pool nowadays, leave alone the sea.
But thanks so much for reading and I'm glad you
enjoyed reading it.
Jenny.
valiswaverider | June 25, 2011 - 18:42
Riding giants,endless summer 1&2 stepping in liquid, billobong odessey big wednesday. Watch the films they are great but only a surfer knows. I aim to get back in the waves this summer
skinner_jennifer | June 25, 2011 - 20:53
Hi valiswaverider,
well I hope you thought this poem came up to the
standard, of what it's really like to ride the
ultimate wave, I would love to know what you thought.
Good luck to riding the waves this summer, hope you
catch some good ones.
Thankyou for reading and leaving your comment, though I would love to know your thoughts on the poem, being as you're a real surfer.
Jenny.
valiswaverider | June 25, 2011 - 21:02
hi Jenny sorry I assumed you where a surfer, silly me
you got it girl of to a tee. I am not much of a surfer any way Laird Hamilton is the man check out this interview. I am more geek than surfer I nick named my board the tardis
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bcNFiagDxIU
p.s if I can surf can learn too :-) surfings the source
valiswaverider | June 25, 2011 - 21:05
hi Jenny I assumed you where a surfer, silly me
you got it girl of to a tee. I am not much of a surfer any way Laird Hamilton is the man check out this interview. I am more geek than surfer I nick named my board the tardis
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bcNFiagDxIU
p.s if I can surf can learn too :-) surfings the source
valiswaverider | June 25, 2011 - 21:08
sorry meant you can learn too, skateboarding, swiss ball and indo board all help with balance and also helped my dyslexia, still crap at spelling though
skinner_jennifer | June 25, 2011 - 21:14
I watched your video, Laird Hamilton has a very good
philosophy I agree, but I'm afraid I live at least
five hours from the sea and to be honest I'm not a
very good swimmer, but I used to surf bathe when I
was in my teens, that was real good fun.
Anyway I'll stop rambling and say thankyou for
coming back and letting me know the poem was right.
Thanks.
Jenny.