Keeping the faith in Mount Abu

Visiting a holiday resort out of season can be a melancholic
experience. The past reaches out and touches you - lively
holiday-makers, small children dropping ice-creams and crying, young
lovers strolling hand in hand. As the summer moves away the faded
colours of the stalls and shop fronts, usually so vibrant in prosperous
times, simply highlight the eerie silence that will last until next
season. The wind blows and spits across the dull grey sky as a constant
reminder as to why there's no-one there. Thankfully, there is an
exception to every rule, and travelling through Rajasthan between
mid-November and mid-April is a world away from that experience. The
weather is better, and in India, with a population of over one billion
people, nowhere is ever that quiet. Exploring this exotic and colourful
land is like travelling though a celebrity's world. You can expect to
receive a lot of attention before eventually overcoming the art of
polite refusal in favour of a straight "no!" But having to say it so
many times to so many people will drain your senses and leave your
nerves frayed. Although the hotel room provides a temporary safe-haven,
you'll need a place to relax, aside from the well-trodden routes -
somewhere where you can simply exist for a while. Majestically seated
on a hilly plateau looking down over the vast sun-baked plains of
Rajasthan and Gujarat, the hill town of Mount Abu provides the perfect
opportunity for just that. When the Rajput Kings wanted a hot season
retreat it was the first place they headed to. The holiday homes they
built have long been converted into impressive and relatively
inexpensive hotels and the nearby polo ground adds a time-honoured and
pleasant colonial feel to what is essentially an oasis in the hills.
It's a predominantly Indian tourist resort that remains lively and open
for business after the maddening crowds have departed, and it's an
ideal getaway at this time - small enough to walk around but not too
small to feel crowded. The government don't allow rickshaws here (it's
too hilly for three wheels) and the resulting atmosphere is one of
priceless serenity. The whole area is a wildlife reserve, the local
sanctuary playing host to panthers, grey jungle fowl, sloth bears, wild
boar and monkeys to name a few. Whilst there I decided to take a tour
and was slightly concerned when our driver casually asked me to leave
the car and walk into the peaceful but daunting undergrowth. "Is it
safe?" I asked. "Perfectly," he assured me, in such a way that I didn't
believe him. "So, do the bears ever attack humans?", "Oh yes, but only
when they're hungry," he replied. I looked nervously around for
something to fend off an attacking bear with and settled for a small
cane stick, safe in the thought that I could jab at it in a threatening
way if needs be. "I'll protect you if we're attacked!" he joked, at
which point I imagined him being slaughtered in front of my very eyes,
the bear giving a sideways glance as if to say "You next!" I felt
scared, praying we wouldn't see one but also hoping desperately we
would. In the end we didn't, and had to make do with clambering up a
large rock to take in the view. All the time I was looking for bears,
practically willing the yellow fur balls out of their hiding places.
"They're really only a problem when they make it into town," said my
guide as an afterthought. "That's when they've attacked before." "So
have they ever killed a human?" I asked nervously. "Not yet," he
laughed, "you may be the first one!" It's enough to make you pray for
good fortune, and Abu is full of places to do so - from tiny roadside
shrines to some of the most impressive ancient temples in the world.
From here you can witness the extent to which Indians draw comfort from
worshipping their 330 million or so different gods - popping in to talk
to the local priest, receiving knowledge, praying, and heading to the
next temple safe in the knowledge of a job well done. Our guide happily
insisted that few people actually understand the significance of it
all, and continued to tell us in some detail what really happened all
those years ago: "You know, when we were all gods." By the time he'd
finished explaining, I had cunningly steered us to the exit. To add to
the mayhem, Mt Abu hosts the international headquarters of the Brahma
Kumaris Spiritual University, the last place on the temple tour. It's
an extremely popular cult with over 4500 centres worldwide and our
driver left us at the gates with a cautious look and the diplomatic
parting comment: "I'd be interested to know what you think?." I was met
by a healthy looking, bright-eyed young man in an elegant white outfit.
He offered to show me around, and in pursuit of relaxation and
spiritual enlightenment, I opened my mind wide and followed. We entered
a huge central lecture hall dotted with groups and speakers where we
sat down in an empty row. He seated himself confidently in front of me
and began the process of saving my soul. After a few minutes of hearing
some of his rather abstract and seemingly unconnected ideas, I knew I
was in trouble when he folded his arms and asked: "Now, do you know
where the soul is situated?" I couldn't help but hazard a guess - "Yes,
it's in the heart." I was sure that's where it would be. He shook his
head knowingly and smiled. This was the cue for some of the most
confused rambling I've heard since my grandma got a video recorder. It
was unfortunate for me that in my efforts to be polite, I'd convinced
him I was not only amazed at the wisdom he was bestowing, but a new
convert to his faith. Maybe he'd get a spiritual commission for it, or
perhaps a bonus blessing. I started to steer the situation once again,
ambling politely around and pointing at things until at a safe enough
distance to break into a run. Escaping had a positive effect on me. A
truly great place to relax is the popular Nakki Lake. Whether it's
walking around or boating across it, you can pass the time here until
the sun sinks slowly behind the hills. The obvious place to head for
then is the well known and aptly-named Sunset Point. It's surprising
how many people you meet with the same idea - some walking, others on
horseback and the really lazy taking a barrow-ride. It's not hard to
imagine a similar scene at a Bollywood cinema, but regardless of the
crowds it's still possible to find peace as you watch the sun drift
quietly over the horizon in search of another day. Having the spirit
calmed in any way is always a cathartic experience and it does wonders
for the appetite. After twenty outstanding curries in a row, the need
for western food takes over and the Hotel Hillock in Abu is fantastic.
With a menu as impressive in its continental cuisine as its local
dishes, cheap and delicious cocktails, and a cosy, warm atmosphere,
there really is nowhere better. It stood out in comparison to
everywhere I'd been in Rajasthan, which given the quality and
consistency of the food in the region is praise indeed. For a truly
colonial experience, the Palace Hotel is an upper class mansion where
you feel you're dining in a place more commonly reserved for tourists
and thick, red-rope barriers. It's a novel experience dining in a
stately home, and with good service and reasonably-priced food is well
worth a visit. As I made my way home, negotiating traffic and the
occasional wandering cow, I sat with monkeys to watch a Rajput wedding
procession. The street band's circus-like sound was complemented by a
strong and infectious rhythm and the groom sat proudly on his horse,
observing the colourfully dressed well-wishers around him while his
steed stirred impatiently amongst the gathered crowd. December is a
popular month for weddings in India and you get see a lot of them. The
sounds and colours of the street processions appear out of the night to
fill your world for a while before joyously fading away again into the
darkness, a brief interlude to the next unforgettable experience in
store. Whatever you do here, you'll find that just to be in Mount Abu
is a relaxation in itself. That's the beauty of the place, and the
beauty is divine. ENDS