Far from the Madding Crowd...
By frances_lee_spiegel
- 873 reads
Let's leave London's crowded galleries and museums for the shady
streets of sleepy Hampstead. We'll explore some of London's
little-known but fascinating collections of art, music and literature,
plus one or two cheerful watering holes along the way and all for under
?25! What more could you ask for?
Hampstead Village sits on a hill to the west of Hampstead Heath. It
grew into a fashionable spa in the eighteenth century, and since then,
apart from the traffic, not much has changed.
The streets of Hampstead have been home to the rich and famous, or poor
and infamous. Famous residents include Alan Ayckbourn, Agatha Christie,
Charles de Gaulle and Peter Sellers.
Fenton House, close to Hampstead Underground Station, dates from the
late 17th-century. It houses a remarkable collection of early keyboard
instruments and rare 18th-century English and continental porcelain.
Most of the instruments are in working order but don't dare to touch
them unless you have previously auditioned and proved yourself worthy
of tinkling such fine ivories!
The house has a well-stocked vegetable garden, an orchard and an
enchanting walled garden with beautiful displays of roses: a peaceful
setting for a few quiet minutes away from the hustle and bustle of
Hampstead High Street.
Also close to Hampstead Station is Burgh House. This Grade I listed
building dates from 1703 and is now home to the Hampstead Museum. Burgh
house offers some excellent early fireplaces, period furniture and art
by local artists.
As you go upstairs to the museum observe the carved staircase, mostly
original, with intricate barley-sugar balusters. The detail of the
newel heads and stair brackets includes primrose-type flowers and ears
of corn.
The museum may be small but boring it certainly is not. The Constable
Room features exhibitions of Hampstead's history from prehistoric times
to the present day. John Constable was a familiar figure around
Hampstead and a permanent display about his life is fascinating.
The Burgh House licensed Buttery serves lunches, teas and coffees. In
good weather you can take your coffee out to the terrace.
Moving on we come to the Magdala Tavern overlooking Hampstead Heath,
famous as the place where Ruth Ellis rid herself of her violent lover.
The only reminders of the pub's past are bullet-holes on the outside
wall and mounted in the bar is a newspaper article arguing against the
hanging of Ms Ellis. Crab and avocado salad plus a cold drink costs
about ?7.00.
Just round the corner is Number Two Willow Road, the house designed by
Ern? Goldfinger in 1939. Initially, I was not impressed, but as an
example of Modernist architecture, this is one of Britain's finest.
Goldfinger designed both the house and most of its furniture. A
remarkable collection of pictures, etchings, engravings and sculptures
includes works by Max Ernst and Henry Moore.
Number Two has some unusual architectural features notably the spiral
staircase rising through its centre. Goldfinger was also expert at
creating concealed but useful spaces, highlighted during the guided
tour.
Barely a stone's throw from Number Two is Keats' House. John Keats
lived in this delightful Regency house from 1818 to 1820 when,
suffering from tuberculoses, he moved to Italy where he died in 1821,
aged 25. It was in the garden that he wrote the well-loved 'Ode to a
Nightingale'.
Displayed are Keats' life and death masks, the engagement ring he gave
his fianc?e, Fanny Brawne, and his inkstand. Personall, the masks give
me the creeps!
There are poetry readings and workshops throughout the season, many
geared to children and families. There is also a programme of talks and
walks around Hampstead, details available from Keats' House
staff.
The Freud Museum is a fifteen-minute walk away but it's well worth the
effort. Sigmund Freud lived here after escaping Nazi persecution in
Austria in 1938. His furniture and household effects form the basis of
the museum collections.
Freud's study and library is preserved as it was during his lifetime.
His collection includes Greek, Roman and Egyptian antiquities, Heriz
and Tabriz rugs, some very unusual 18th and 19th-century Austrian
furniture, Biedermeier tables, cupboards and chests, not to mention an
impressive selection of reference books.
The most famous piece of furniture is Freud's analytical couch. It
looks very comfy but don't you dare go trying it out!
More information about Hampstead can be obtained from London Borough of
Camden Information Point: Tel: 0208 7974 5974, web: www.camden.gov.uk
or www.thisislondon.co.uk.
Fenton House, Windmill Hill, Hampstead, NW3 6RT
Information: Tel: 020 7435 3471 Infoline: 01494 755563
Email: fentonhouse@ntrust.org.uk
Admission*: ?4.40; Child ?2.20; family ?11
(?6.30 joint ticket with Number Two Willow Road)
Open: 31 Mar-4 Nov Wed-Fri 14.00-17.00; Sat-Sun &; Bank Hol Mon
11.00-17.00
Nearest Subway: Hampstead (Northern line) Hampstead Heath British
Rail
*National Trust Members: Free
Burgh House, New End Square, NW3 1LT
Admission: Free
Open: Wed-Fri Sun 12 noon - 17.00 Sat by appointment. (Bank hols 2 - 5
p.m.)
Information: Tel: 020 7431 0144
Nearest subway: Hampstead
Buttery: Wed to Sun 11 a.m. to 5.30 p.m. (Tel: 020 7431 2516)
Number Two Willow Road, 2 Willow Road, Hampstead, NW3 QTH
Admission*: ?4.40; Child ?2.20; family ?11. (?6.30 joint ticket with
Fenton House)
Open: 28 Mar-2 Nov; Thur, Fri &; Sat 12-5
Information: Telephone: 020 7435 6166 Infoline: 01494 755570 Email:
2willowroad@ntrust.org.uk
Nearest Subway: Hampstead or Belsize Park Undergrounds or Hampstead
Heath British Rail
*National Trust Members: Free
Keats House, Keats Grove, Hampstead NW3 2RR
Open: Daily (Not Mondays) 12 noon - 5 p.m.
Admission: ?3.00, Concessions ?1.50. Ticket valid for return visits
within one year. . Gardens: free
Information: Telephone: 020 7435 2062 Email:
keatshouse@corpoflondon.gov.uk
Nearest Subway: Hampstead or Belsize Park (Northern Line) Hampstead
Heath (Silverlink Metro Line)
Freud House, 20 Maresfield Gardens NW3 5SX
Opening times: Wednesday to Sunday 12 - 5 p.m. (Monday &; Tuesday
closed).
Admission: ?4:00; ?2:00 concessions; children under 12 years free
Information: Telephone: 020 7435 2002 Email: freud@gn.apc.org
www.freud.org.uk
Nearest Subway: Finchley Road (Metropolitan Line)
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