Agaete: The magic of pristine nature

Agaete: The magic of pristine nature

Text and photos copyright 2001 by Mari Cruz García
All rights reserved. No material contained in this article may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted by any means in whole or in part without the written permission of the author.

Gran Canaria, the main island of the Canary Archipelago, assembles in a near perfect circle, bathed in the mists of the Atlantic Ocean and close to the northwest coast of Africa. Mystic and worldly, plundered and pristine, the island hides an astonishing variety of unspoiled sceneries in the North, far from the maddening, crowed tourist complexes in the South. This diversity of natural environments, with the corresponding microclimates, merits Gran Canaria the title of "continent in miniature. One of these untainted areas can be found on the northwestern coast, in the region of Agaete. There, the lofty range of Tamadaba, the biggest pine forest of Gran Canaria, merges with the sea shaping into breathtaking cliffs. Agaete, where the most crystal-clear waters of the island uncover secluded wild beaches. A fertile soil with contrasting landscapes. A trip to enjoy as a traveller, never as a tourist.

The anarchic village of Agaete
Far from the madding crowd but geographically close to Las Palmas (only 37 km), the royal village of Agaete lies at the foot of the Tamadaba's massif. Its present population of 5844 inhabitants live and inhabit the anarchic slope streets of white houses. Tourist leaflets claim that the climate is moderate, with an average of 23º in the summer and 17º in the winter. The fact is that, in June, a merciless African sun raises the temperature to more than 30º. The scarce clouds coming from the north are retained by the mountains, forming the so called "panza de burra (literally, donkey belly).

Region of Agaete

Founded by the Crown of Castilla at the end of the 15th century, Agaete has an important archaeological, historical and artistic patrimony. Both its strategic location and its natural deep port turned it into a crucial enclave and trading center. Since the Conquest's days, a profitable maritime trade was developed with the neighbouring island of Tenerife. At present, the local economy is based on agriculture, especially exotic fruits like oranges, mangos and guavas.

It is well worth a visit to Las Nieves Chapel, near Puerto de las Nieves. This chapel is a testimony of Spanish conquerors devotion. It possesses a superb 16th century triptych by the Flemish artist Joos Van Clave. Lost in the labyrinthine streets of Agaete many buildings and churches, such as the church of La Conception, located in the main square, and the Chapel of San Sebastian highlight the traditional canary architecture of the 19th century.

During the hot, bright sunny hours, without a doubt, the "Huerto de las Flores (Flower Garden) is a delightful place to visit. Pride and joy of locals, it is a small garden containing more than 200 species of plants and flowers from all over the world. The 19th century writer Olive Stone was captivated by the garden charm when he visited Agaete.

The anarchic village of Agaete

When the evening falls over the valley of Agaete, the trade winds turn the temperature cooler. It is time for locals to meet at the "Plaza (main square). From there, the last "guagua (public bus) departs to Las Palmas. It is time to gossip about who has left and who has arrived. Agaete´s natives are mainly brown-skinned, friendly and calm. They are also curious, very curious, according to the opinion of the rest of islanders. They speak a closed, strong dialect, even difficult for Spanish-speakers to understand.

Maipés: the enigma of the Guanches

Agaete preserves invaluable pre-Hispanic archaeological remains in its surroundings. In the time previous to the Spanish Conquest, the region had become a thriving Guanche settlement. The town of Galdar was a main aboriginal capital.

In the heart of the Puerto de las Nieves, only a small plaque over a wall remembers that one of the two main Necropolises in the island, "Maipés de Arriba, was discovered there. In spite of the fact that in 1973 Maipés was declared a "Artistic and Historical Monument, no archaeological excavations are held here. The Guanche graveyard of Maipés lies forgotten under new seaside buildings and "casas baratas, a consequence of land speculation in the 70's and 80's. Neither the Spanish Government nor Canary Cabildo (regional Parliament) seem to be interested in safeguarding this patrimony of mankind against oblivion.

But who were the Guanches?¦ The origin of the Canary Islands indigenous population has long intrigued the anthropologies. The Guanches were tall, blond and blue-eyed natives that evolved in perfect isolation, far from either Europe or Orient civilizations. Mainly a agricultural and ranching society, this race was massacred by the Spanish invaders at the end of the 15th century. The conquest chronicles testify the legendary courage of the Guanches, who preferred a honourable death hurling themselves over ravines and precipices rather than becoming slaves of conquerors.

Traditionally the Guanches are related to the Berbers of neighbouring Morocco, who show, likewise, blond hair and blue eyes. The Encyclopaedia Britannica quotes that these people "are thought to have been of Cro-Magnon origin (¦) and had brown complexion, blue or grey eyes and blondish hair. Isolated in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean, the Guanches did not mingle sexually with other races, preserving their pristine Cro-Magnon genetic traits. However, genocide survivors were forced to crossbreed with invaders, losing the original race traits. At present, brown skin, thick lips and curly, black hair are the dominant genetic trends, as islanders have largely mixed with both Spaniards and South American people.

Theories, varying from the most unlike to the most pragmatic ones, try to explain the enigmatic origin of the Guanches. The Archipelago itself, the mythical "Isles of the Blest, is shrouded in mystery since "the mists of time. Riddle, secluded, in the middle of nowhere, the Canaries are linked to legends of many ancient civilizations. Classical writers such us Herodotus, Homer and Plato place the legendary Garden of the Hesperides here. Phoenicians, the Minoan Cretans, the Etruscans and other Mediterranean navigant people mention, likewise, such fantastic islands "at the confines of the earth. Sacred sagas from Far India, like the Ramayana and the Mahabharata, describe the "Evening Isles as a "mirror image of the real Garden of Eden, located somewhere in the Orient. Finally, the Celtic mythology and traditions of Germanic nations recount about blessed, mist isles "beyond the seas, such us Avalon or Nefelheim.

Many atlantologists have suggested that the Canary Islands are the residues of a sunken continent, the legendary Atlantis. According to them, the "far country where the gods lived in was destroyed by the Flood, approximately 9.000-12.000 years ago. The Canaries, along with the other neighbouring islands, such us the Azores, are actually the high volcanic summits of the foundered continent. Serious philologists have pointed out the surprising coincidences, both in phonetics and grammar, between the Guanche and Dravida language, the sacred tongue of the Dravidians populations of India. As the Guanches mummified their dead, the material found in the excavations of Maipés de Arriba, among others, point out what they shared with the Polynesians, the Egyptians and the Mayas: a common, strange mode of disposing their mummies. Guayota, the Supreme Maker of the Guanches, is also connected to other ancient gods such us the deceptive Hindu goddesses Maya or the Celtic Supreme Smith, Lug. As a result of these cogent coincidences, atlantologists conclude that all these geographically distant cultures are the remainders of a common ancient civilization, the Atlanteans.

Nevertheless, the theory of the Atlantis is riddled with many inconsistencies. The main one: It is impossible, according to the theory of Plate Tectonics, that the Canary Islands are the remainders of any sunken continent. In fact, they are a part of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, having been formed by submarine volcanoes at the end of the Tertiary Age (2.5 millions years ago). In the light of this evidence, more realistic researchers moot out that the Guanches, along with the Berbers, came from Arabia or from some Indian remote region (hence, coincidences in both mythology and language could be explained), after crossing the Sahara Desert. But, how could a people that ignored the technique for sailing across the Ocean reach the Isles of the Blest?¦

The only truth based on these conflicting theories is, that the Guanches represented the unique, lost opportunity of studying the early cultures at the Earth, intimately connected with the myth of Atlantis.

A walk across Tamadaba

The Natural Park of Tamadaba (7538 hectares) exhibits an impressive combination of unspoiled landscapes and native wildlife. The Massif of Tamadaba, sacred mountain of the Guanches, rises hieratic over a rich region of contrast, delimited by a rugged coastline of fast-falling cliffs in the West, the deep Ravine of Agaete in the Northeast and the abrupt rocky landscapes of the Andén Verde and Tirma in the Southwest. It is here at the summits of Tamadaba that we find the largest pine forest of Gran Canaria. This green extension arises unexpectedly from the dominant dry, ochre scenery. Decades ago, during the months of March and November the north-Atlantic clouds were propelled by the trade winds to these steep summits. Traditionally this is the rainy season of Grand Canary The drought of the last five years, caused by the climate change, has harshly affected these forests and the whole island. The ancient pine trees of Tamadaba only survive in the dew humidity.

The impressive massif of Tamadaba

The "royal trails of Tamadaba are as old as the Mountains. This profusion of winding trails can only be walked on foot. Indeed, the deep-cut geography has preserved this region from mass tourism. Most of these trails date back to the days of the Conquest and they have, until recently, been the only way people travel in and around Grand Canary.

Meriting special mention is the "Camino de Guayedra (Path to Guayedra). Fairly easy to climb, the path starts from the Puerto de las Nieves, a small fisherman´s haven, just 1 km from Agaete´s center. The path climbs over the imposing Tamabada´s cliffs, which head towards the sea some 1.500 meters below. Provided the visitor does not suffer from fear of hights, it is worth the risk of sighting the cliffs falling headlong into the sea. In front of Las Nieves, just next to the cliffs, a rocky oddity known as "El dedo de Dios (The finger of God) surprises the visitor. The name was given by the Canarian writer Domingo Doreste, due to its peculiar similarity to "a enormous finger pointing towards the heavens. At present, El Dedo de Dios is the symbol of Agaete.

Views from the path to Guayedra,

At the highest point of this soft uphill path, the superb views of the west coastline leave the sightseer in awe. Like the scenery of a novel from R. E: Howard, sea and mountain intertwine along 8 Km, merging, in the distance, into the Atlantic mists. The path goes down sinuous towards the beach of Guayedra. The cleanest waters around the island bath this secluded beach, only accessible on foot. After the hard walk, why not swinging naked in the Atlantic Ocean, just in perfect harmony with nature?¦ This trip discovers the visitor one the few unspoiled beaches preserved in Gran Canaria. In addition, it is the only spot to enjoy nudism in the surroundings of Agaete (do not try to practice it in the narrow-minded Puerto de las Nieves!)

Trekking lovers are challenged to walk along the "Bajada de la Rama, also known as "El Camino de los Romeros (path of the pilgrims). This royal trail climbs towards the summit of Tamadaba, with an ascent of 1.255 m along nearly 8,5 Km. Now, the walker turns provisionally into a pilgrim, venturing into a sacred pilgrimage route, both for the Guanches and for the first Canarians. The origins of the Camino de la Rama dates back to the aboriginal rites of invoking rain. The Conquest chronicler Abreu y Galindo related in 1606 that, when rain became scarce, the Guanche people ascended to Tamadaba bearing branches of palm trees and offerings to their Supreme God, Guayota. From there, all the tribes came down to the sea shaking the branches in a frenetic dance. The rite concluded when the branches were shook against the sea. As centuries went by, the ceremony was christianised, losing its primitive innocence. Nowadays, the aboriginal rite is unconsciously reminisced in two festivities or "romerías: La Rama Chica, celebrated on June, the 28th, in El Valle, and La Rama Grande, taking place on August, the 4th. Despite what the official tourist leaflets may tell, the fact is that, at present, La Rama has turned into an overcrowded commercial festivity. Peace and nature lovers are advised not to visit Agaete during these dates.

For the rest of the year, the pilgrim walks alone in the shade of the pine groves, home to some endemic species, even natives of Tamadaba. A strong scent of wild pennyroyal, pine, eucalyptus and heather pervades the air, taking the pilgrim back to the remote days of Tamarán (the original name of the island). The national flower, "bicarera, is, likewise, a familiar sight in these spots.

At the peak of Tamadaba, where the trail finishes, the breathless pilgrim is rewarded with the imposing sights of El Fanaque, odd and secluded neighbouring peak, the water reservoirs of Lugarejos and Los Pérez, and the fertile mountainsides of El Hornillo and El Valle. In sunny days, the tagarote falcon, endemic species in danger of extinction, flies through the sky lofty and hieratic. Far, in the west, the shepherds of Tamadaba assert that the figure of the Teide, legendary adobe of Guayota, can be sighted in the distance.

The charm of traditions

After these exhausting walks, it is time to get strengths back with a relaxing evening at El Valle (the valley of Agaete). The volcanic grounds of this region are one of the most fertile on the island. Visitors can enjoy the Canarian gastronomy, such us the "papas arrugás, the "sancocho or a variety of goal cheese typical from Agaete. The Puerto de las Nieves is, likewise, well known for its fish restaurants and warm, friendly atmosphere. El Valley is mainly famous for its rich gastronomy and the natural springs of medicinal water. For this reason this place has a mineral water bottling plant.

The Valley of Agaete

At last, no travel to Agaete would be completed without a visit to the amazing cave-houses of El Hornillo, consisting of a singule neighbourhood nestled against the hillsides and crags of the Ravine of Agaete. Houses are just bored through the ravine rocks, with small familiar gardens located on the uphill terraces. This region, far away from any main road, still practices and keeps the most genuine Canarian traditions alive. Inhabitants are farmers and shepherds, just as their parents and their grandparents were. Middle-aged people still use the old trails to walk laden long distances across these rugged slopes. Cars and roads are relatively recent vanities of modern age. Electricity and the telephone arrived 20 years ago. The locals, proud of their heritage and environment, are fond of relating anecdotes about their splendid isolation for centuries. One of the most famous anecdotes is the case of a parish priest that refused to practice his ministry in these crags, arguing that "los que como guirres vivís, como guirres morís¦ (Those who live like wilds, die like wilds)

Those interested in anecdotes, folklore and local History are encouraged to visit the cave-museum run by Juan Cubas Montes de Oca and his mother, who is close to 100 years old, but completely lucid and self-independent. Juanito, "Juanito, pa´servirle. is a friendly, curious old guy who lives in a cave-museum open to visitors. Apart from a rolling stone youth spent in Cuba, Juanito has lived all of his life in El Hornillo, a region he knows "like the back of his hand. The cave-museum consists of several separate caves surrounding a typical Canarian "patio (courtyard). All the caves are around 300 years old. The average temperature is 22-25º, irrespective of the weather. Patiently, Juanito has been collecting all kinds of miscellaneous antiques and oddities, testimony of daily life during the last two centuries: from 19th century dressing tables and looms, used by the Hornillo´s inhabitants to tailor their own wool clothes; to 18th century rich worship objects, crockery and pictures brought from Cuba to farm tools belonging to his grandparents. A photograph collection, showing the daily life in El Hornillo at the beginning of the century, ends the visit. The cave-museum is maintained by visitors donations. Stressed visitors and silence lovers can rent one of these caves, if they want.

Agaete, a meeting point of nature, folklore and remote pre-Hispanic traditions. Without a doubt, a delightful place for discovering the real Tamarán, far from the hackneyed topics of "sun and beach offered by the travel agencies.

Useful Information
How to go Taking National Road GC2 directly from the airport, or from Las Palmas (Playa de las Alcaravaneras)

Public Transport: Utinsa, Line 103 from Las Palmas Main Station
Tourist information Tourist Information Office at Agaete: 0034928 89 80 02 (9:00 a.m.-2:00 p.m., Monday-Friday)
Where to sleep  Hotel Puerto de Las Nieves ****, Avenida del Alcalde José de Armas, Puerto de las Nieves, 00 34 928 886 256

ï‚· Hotel Princesa Guanarteme ****, Carretera de Los Berrazales, s/n, Valle de Agaete, 00 34 928 898 009

ï‚· There is, likewise, a wide offer of rural houses available at Tourist Information Office

La Plaza (main square) and the Church of La Concepción

Puerto de Las Nieves, view from the Path to Guayedra

Rural houses for renting in the surrounds of Agaete

The impressive Peak of El Faneque

The largest pine forest of Gran Canaria can be found at the summit of Tamadaba

Ravine of Agaete

Valle de Agaete

Kitchen of Juanito´s cave-house

Typical Canarian "patio at El Hornillo

Miscellaneous of 18th century rich worship objects

Puerto de las Nieves