Amazonian Paranoia

Up early &; off to the airport again. As we attempt to book in,
we are informed that we've missed the flight, as it left @ 7.45 &;
not the 9.45, that we had thought. Keels moaned &; fluttered his
eyelids once more &; the ladies eventually told us that the flight
had infact been delayed &; we can get it. Bloody relief or what. FP
FB.

Hour &; a half later, we're landing in the middle of the Amazon at
Leticia Airport. We were thoroughly searched by the security, as they
repeatedly mistook my coffee, baccy &; clothes, for marijuana, until
Keels told them if there were a problem, why don't they call the
British Embassy. The bags were promptly zipped up &; off we went.
Met 'Mowgli', a local who arranges tours from Tabatinga in Brazil.
Border territory here, Leticia is in Colombia, 2km down the road is
Tabatinga in Brazil &; on an island, in the river is Santa Rosa in
Peru. Five minutes later, we're in Brazil arranging a trek in Peru.
Three day excursion organised. Quick strut back into Colombia for some
light weight slacks. We found a bank with a cash machine. I thought I'd
give the Visa Electon a whirl &; would you believe it, it was
accepted. Amazon - yes - Venezuela - no - mmmmmm. By 3.45, we were in a
boat, darting along the Amazon to the unknown. Crazy place this - the
borders aren't checked at all - only signposted. I expected mass
security due to the narco trade.

The Amazon is like a murky, brown ocean, it is so vast. It must be a
minimum of 5 km wide at this point &; we're a good 2,000 km from the
mouth (which I hear, is the equivalent in width to the distance between
London &; Paris). We got a powered taxi boat across the expanse of
water, past many islands to Benjamin Constant for fruit, then trees,
trees, trees. Civilisation as we know it was being left behind. About
an hour &; a half later, we were pulling into a village of about 5
huts, on a tributary called the Rio Javari. Obviously Keels &; I
were papping our pants &; didn't want to get off the boat, but on
seeing loads of happy children, we realised that they must be a
friendly bunch. One of the geezers on the boat also got off &; made
motions that suggested he was our guide. He introduced himself as
Raymond. Quite a surprise actually - he was a small, bald chap of about
5ft in shorts, short sleeved shirt &; flip flops. I feel a tad
overdressed in my jeans, polo shirt, hiking boots combo.

After acquaintances were made with Raymond, we got our belongings &;
dragged them up the steep bank to the village, where we were introduced
to a couple of the elders. Nervous grins, then ten minutes to ourselves
as we tried in vain to comprehend what was happening.

Chicken &; rice, then onto a tiny balance conscious wooden boat that
had to be continually bailed out &; hardly raised itself out of the
river, for a bit of Caiman (crocodile like being) hunting. It was
wicked, we just paddled along in pitch black with Raymond &; a
village elder, then a search with torches along the river banks for
reflective eyes. Once spotted, (the banks are teeming with
reflections), the local chap steered the boat straight for the eyes
&; in one swoop with his hand, grabbed the Blighter around the neck.
Pretty amazing stuff. We passed each one down the boat &; then stuck
them back in the river. We are informed it is illegal to kill most
animals in the jungle. Wondered how the locals survived. At one point,
Keels &; I nearly dropped one, as we passed it between each other.
We almost capsized. We were then informed to be careful, as if you are
bitten by one, it gets lockjaw &; you're in trouble. A fish jumped
into the boat, by my feet. We almost capsized. We also witnessed
another boat with another couple of the villagers in it, approach the
river bank &; hammer a caiman to death.

Back to the village for a kip up in the hammocks after nearly stepping
on the biggest frog I have ever seen in my life. Very comfortable
actually. The sounds of insects, animals, splashes from the river &;
the most torrential downpour I remember hearing didn't stop me crashing
under my Mozzy net that was cordially supplied by Raymond.