Christmas Eve in Ft. Lauderdale, Florida

Christmas Eve
Fort Lauderdale, Florida

Friday- December 24,2010- Bonita Springs, Florida.

We were up early at 6:30 A.M. We packed our gear, read the paper and then at 8:30 A.M. we set out on Rte. #75 South for “Alligator Alley” and the 100 mile run across the Everglades of Southern Florida. There was light traffic on the alley as we sailed past the saw grass, slash pines and wilds of the everglades. It was too cool out for the alligators. Most lay in the water with only their snouts protruding in the canals along side of the fenced-in roadway. In many years past, cars had run over the beasts as they crawled across the roadway, giving the highway its name.

The birds were plentiful in their sylvan perches. Egrets, herons and ibises abounded. High above a few hawks circled in the air currents. You really have to pull over to the roadside and shut off your car’s engine to get a sense of where you are. When you do so, an explosion of bird noises assaults you.There is the smell of jungle here and the promise of harm in the wild if you wander far from the roadside. There are many things in these parts that will kill you unthinkingly as they do other prey. Panthers, feral hogs and several poisonous snakes top the list should you avoid the alligators and fire ants. Still, it is an enchanting portrait of another age and another time all around you. Far across the skyline of green you can see the occasional hummock with a slash pine or lone cypress tree standing above the moving river of grass all around you. The Seminole and Micosukee reservations sit along the highway and help maintain the eco-culture fiercely.

As we neared the eastern coast, you could see several raised highways and a long series of power lines in the distance. We were returning from the wilds of the everglades to the maze of cluttered civilization that is the southeast coast of Florida. We exited onto Rte. # 595 North and followed it to Rte. #95 North. Then, we exited onto Sunrise Blvd. and followed it through Ft. lauderdale to its end at beach front North Atlantic Blvd. The day and sunny and strollers; joggers, surfers, and sun bathers were everywhere about along the beach. The beach front here runs for about 7 miles and has an unobstructed visage of blue atlantic, tan sand and azure sky. It is really is beautiful.

We followed North Atlantic Blvd for a few miles until we came upon the aging beach-front dowager that would shelter us for the next few days.
The Sun Tower hotel is an aging reminder of another era. New owners had refurbished it entirely. It looked sparkly and new next to the pricey Pelican Grand hotel next door.

It was only 11:00 A.M. but we checked in. The helpful clerk said that the room was not yet ready but she would call us via cell phone when it was. We appreciated her attitude, service with a smile. We set out back along North Atlantic Blvd. for a drive through town. The beachfront was awash with Christmas visitors. License plates from many states and several Canadian Provinces attested to the beaches popularity.

We found Las Olas Blvd. and drove across that interesting and busy commercial slip to its end at the New River. We were in search of the Fine Arts Gallery. We had enjoye the Tutenkamen exhibit here a few years back and remembered a vibrant river front area with restaurants and hordes of visitors. What we found was a ghost town. We left our car at a nearby city ramp and felt uncomfortable leaving it alone there. We walked a few blocks and found the museum entrance. A few staff and museum guards had the place to themselves. The first floor of the museum was closed in preparation for a coming exhibit called “Treasures of the Vatican.” We paid a $7 entrance fee and walked up to the second level. Most of it held the sketchings of a forgettable artists whose name I don’t remember. We were disappointed and left shortly.

The surrounding area wasn’t too attractive either, so we saddled up the voiture and drove back along busy Las Olas. In the commercial center, we found a parking lot and left our car. We walked up one side of the three block strip and down the other admiring the small cafes, restaurants and shops that attracted throngs of visitors. Most places were only open for dinner but we found a very comfortable berth in and open air cafe called “Mango’s.” A pleasant waiter served us grilled Mahi Mahi with French Fries' and good coffee. It was both enjoyable and tasty at $32.

After lunch we walked for a bit and then returned to the car for a drive. We stopped at a Marathon gas station perhaps the only one open on Christmas Eve and bought gas for $3.25 per gallon, regular. Ouch!

From Las Olas, we drove back along the beach admiring the many canals off Las Olas with their exquisite casa grandes and impressive yachts docked in the canals alongside. The area sparkled with money. It was but a taste of the moneyed splendor what we were to see the next day.

We followed North Atlantic Ave, north for a few miles enjoying the period piece architecture form the 1950’s as it blended with the more modern high rises. In this area of Florida the coastal area s are forests of high rise condos.

The hotel clerk called us about 1:30 P.M. and we drove back to the Sun Tower hotel, where we checked in and were assigned room # 953 on the third floor. The seven story hotel has every room facing out onto the ocean with small balconies. Our room was clean, pleasant and agreeable. We sat for a bit after unpacking and enjoyed the deep blue of the ocean and the melodic crashing of the surf on the shore just beneath us.

Two small girls were running into the surf and squealing like monkeys as they rolled in the crashing surf, delighted with the sea and waves. It made us smile for a bit until our ears began to ache from the squealing. We changed into walking clothes and set out for a walk along the ocean parkway. It was 71 degrees and sunny with a north wind, a beautiful day to be at the beach.

We walked by the series of life guard towers with their observant guards and admired the tableau of beach and scenery. Surfers, swimmers, tanners, volley ball players and idlers of many types populated the two miles of beach front as we walked in towards out goal of Starbucks near the new Westin hotel. Traffic was heavy along North Atlantic Blvd. as people scurried to shop, and then head off to grandma’s The string of hotels along the beach were chock full.

We made it to Starbuck's and stopped for some of their delicious brew as we watched the various boats, swimmers and joggers float on by us. You can just sit and watch at a beach all day and never be bored. The stories that flow by you are endless.

We took a few pictures and sat for a time watching some wind surfers slide back and forth across the waves. The bright colored para sails tugged hard on the surfer’s arms as they filled with the stiff breezes. A lifeguard had to chase in

three teens who were drifting out too far in the surf. The dude was quick and sure in his actions. He probably prevented a drowning with his quick work. I complimented him on his quick thinking.

The afternoon was waning as we walked back towards the hotel;. Although the sun didn’t set here until 5:30 P.M., the high rises blocked the sun on the beach as the sun began tro set far to the West. The shade started to cool things down around three O’clock. The North wind was also picking up. We walked briskly, tiring with the four plus mile walk, before we reached the comfortable safe harbor of the Sun Tower Hotel. In our room, we settled in with a good glass of Pinot Noir and sat on the balcony, watching the children rollicking in the surf. It is a tableau I could watch forever.

It was early on Christmas Eve. We had eaten lunch, but decided to go down to the hotel’s beachfront restaurant, “The Sandbar Grille” for a light supper. Although small in size, the restaurant sits on the beach with a patio full of tables. It was cooling off outside, so we sat at one of the four inside tables. Two couples were already enjoying happy hour at the bar. We ordered goat-cheese spinach salads and a bowl of conch chowder. Both were exquisite. The place was a find. We talked with the bartender for a bit and complemented the cook. It was an enjoyable stop. We were much surprised[rise at the superb quality of the food for a such a small hotel and bar. We will return. We wished the patrons a Merry Christmas. Outside, along the patio, three rooms face the ocean. A large extended family was sharing tables in a Christmas celebration. We stopped to comments on their nice digs and wished them a Merry Christmas. It is surprising how many smiles you can elicit with that single phrase.

These aging honeymooners were tiring with the long day. We sat again on our small balcony and enjoyed another glass of Pinot Noir as we watched the surf crash on the beach below us. A line of tankers with their twinkling lights sat just off shore on the horizon.

We read our book for a time and then drifted off to visit the sandman with the accompanying roar of the surf crashing on the shore just below us. Merry Christmas world. It was a lovely day in Florida.

Saturday, December 26, 2010 Christmas Day-
Ft. Lauderdale, Florida