GREAT NORTH ROAD

GREAT NORTH ROAD

I'm leaving the rock fast. Even as the dampness reaching my fingertips
transmits the presence of water under my hands to my slow working
brain, I am travelling. Catapulted outward and down. Faster and yet
faster my body is losing contact with the wall. How have I been so damn
stupid? I am trying to make my hands work, my arms are stretching,
everything I possess, physically and mentally, is straining in this one
last possible attempt to regain some form of purchase. I'm trying to
will myself back onto the sun-warmed rock now just beyond my hands, to
feel some contact, some connection or solidity with the world I'm
leaving behind.

The climb ever upwards is comfortable, with this exposure below my feet
it is exhilarating, hard, but today well within my capabilities and I'm
certainly feeling fitter than ever before. My whole life is coming
together this year. From the birth of my second daughter to the new
cottage, which has come with the job, everything is falling into place;
it's a great summer for me, one that is never likely to be repeated.
There's a magic in my veins from all the training and climbing of the
last few months. Poor Steve is struggling to keep up with me as I power
my way through the list of climbs we came here to do today. The sun is
warm on the granite beneath me on this wonderful day and we are both
aware that anything is possible. Together as a team we are invincible,
a rare moment that is helping us to push the limits of our abilities to
new heights. This climb, Great North Road, has always eluded us, either
too wet or dank due to the small waterfall that trickled beside it or
we had never felt mentally strong enough to face the exposure of its
massively overhanging roof. This early August morning after a couple of
warm-up routes it had invited us to tackle up and give it our best shot
and we were only too happy to oblige.

"Where going to take a couple of falls on this." Steve foresaw as we
geared up on the grassy bank at the base. There was no fear in his
voice, only excitement.

"More than likely." I'd replied. "But it's good clean rock and there's
nothing really dangerous about it. It's just very exposed. You take the
first pitch and that'll give me the crux moves on the second. I think
it's time we marked this one off while everything's in our
favour."

I watched Steve climb off easily and fluidly up the first pitch and
after a short wait I heard him calling that he was at the belay point
at the head of the pitch. Moving swiftly over the easy rock I climbed
up to join him at the stance where we'd smiled together at our shared
enjoyment.

"I know I could take that crux on myself." He'd only half joked as we'd
looked up at the overhanging roof of rock together, searching for the
weakness, the way through.

"Forget it!" had been my answer as I'd pulled onto the first holds.
Even in the knowledge that today he would only be the second he'd
laughed with me.

There was sweat in the heat and exertion. The moves up to the overhang
had been large but physically demanding. I'd climbed in a rhythmical
fashion not daring to pause too long and waste precious stamina, I know
the cost it will take on my muscles to surmount the roof and I try to
pace myself but not waste any time. I hadn't bothered to place much
protection, as I'd known Steve was well belayed to the rock below me
and should have been able to take my weight on a direct fall.
Protection would only have set up a pendulum effect if I'd fallen and
as I'd just recovered from my last dose of cracked ribs, the pain still
fresh in the memory, I'm wasn't going to repeat that scenario on this
day.

"I'm through&;#8230;" I'd shouted it loudly so that Steve could hear
but I'd also known that my voice would carry to other climbers on
adjacent routes. Vanity and exhibitionism seem to go hand in hand with
climbing, especially when you're moving well in warm weather with
picnickers looking on in wide-eyed amazement at your gymnastics.

Drawing deep cleansing breathes I'd replaced the oxygen expended and
the looked around and above. The shock had been immediate as I noticed
the blank wall in front of me and the realisation sank in that my
protection was too far away and inadequate. To be so far away from
Steve was dangerous. I'd searched the wall above and with slight relief
I'd found a hairline crack. With a shaking body I'd managed to unclip a
small wire wedge from my gear harness and slid it into the groove. I'd
told myself that all was well and mentally it had helped but in my
heart I'd known it would probably only slow me. Taking another small
wire I'd inserted it about twenty centimetres from the first and taking
a small sling, which I'd threaded between the two I'd hoped to set up a
cantilever action if I fell on them. Then I'd relaxed and looked
carefully around until I'd spotted my next target a comforting crack
system eight feet to my right. I'd moved my right hand across and found
a hold. It had been thin but I'd been out of choices and what else
could I have done. My weight had swung across as I'd reached left hand
over right.

It's a warm summers day as I put chalk onto my hands and look up at the
climb. Great North Road calls again and my spirit answers by walking to
the foot of the crag. There's no sign of Steve so it looks as though
I'll be doing this solo. Staring at the rock I watch other climbers
performing their acrobatics. I listen to their shouts which seem
strangely muted on the warm morning air as I feel the anger in my hands
compelling me to reach forward and once again grasp the stone that is
now my only reason for being.