Above Thornton Force

ABOVE THORNTON FORCE by Jonathan Ball

Ingleton has too much modern sprawl to be called a pretty village, but
it has an attractive centre with steep winding streets going down to
the gorge where its celebrated Waterfalls Walk starts.

Before the railways arrived in the late 19th century, Ingleton relied
much on its wool- and cotton-spinning industries, and before that coal
mining. Now instead of mill-worker's cottages there are guesthouse,
gift shops and several good pubs.

I was here as an amateur walker, who just enjoyed being in the desolate
hills of Yorkshire. I stayed in the well-facilitated Ingleton youth
hostel, not so far from the start of the walk I was gearing up for
tomorrow. I was told that it was 'one of the best walks in the
Dale's'.

The Ingleton youth hostel is ideally situated just 3 miles from the
nearest railway station and with regular Stagecoach buses, it is
accessible for everyone. Although each room has 6 beds in, it is
surprisingly spacious and usually very quiet. Though, I have only had
two experiences of this newly renovated hostel.

I had a few hours to spare before lunch, so I went to delve into the
splendours of Ingleton, according to recommended advice from my
Ordnance survey leisure guide. The first stop on my travel was the
church of St. Mary the Virgin. Though it has been rebuilt several
times, its 15th-century tower still remains. Its oldest feature is the
Norman font, carved with figures from the life of Christ, which was
rediscovered in 1830, having been hidden in the river below for
safe-keeping during times of religious persecution.

The church also boasts what is known as 'The Vinegar Bible', so-called
because of a misprint in what should have been the parable of the
vineyards.

For those of you with a car, on the B6255 to the north east of Ingleton
are the White scar caves, the best show caves in the Dales. With
underground rivers and waterfalls, these make for an exciting trip
underground on one of the hour-long guided tours. Unfortunately for me,
I have never had the chance to venture that far out.

I pondered through the town centre via several idyllic medieval
cottages and passing through perfectly located gift-shops before
finally arriving back in the luxurious space of my dorm.

In the dining room I overheard several other insomniac's - like me -
expediting the same course I was. I asked if I could tag along because
they seemed like 'jolly people', which I think was their reasoning for
agreeing. Such nice people, walkers.

As in Julie Andrews' the Sound of Music, we started at the very
beginning, which was a single man-made path that began on the far side
of the main car park in Ingleton. I wisely took the advice of my guide
and wore my boots. The path led past the beautiful river Twiss. It was
at this point that my previously recommended boots came in no help at
all because I was now laying face down in the mud. It wasn't the last
time I'd be there either. I looked at my guide again. Oh yeah! It does
mention it. 'Take care as spray from the falls can make the paths wet?'
If only I'd have read that almost invisible three line statement.

It was at this point on the short man-made course that the falls were
at their most beautiful. It was hard to believe that these falls were
not discovered until the 19th century, as Ingleton had been renowned
for its caves and splendid scenery.
We then passed through Swilia Glen, with its high limestone walls and
rich woodland. Here the river has wide pools and short sets of rapids.
It is at this part of the course that you will see the most wildlife,
mostly early on a morning. The woods are home to deer, and birds, which
may be seen here, include herons, tawny owls and woodpeckers. I'm told.
However because of my sleepless night, there was none to be seen.

We then crossed to the far side of the river over a footbridge where
your eye is automatically logged to the exquisite Pecca Falls. Pecca
Falls is a set of five waterfalls, of which the ultimate of the five is
a thunderous plunge whose spray fills the air some 40 yards away.

The path then continues on up to Thornton Force, which comes into view
on your right. These falls, 46 metres high, are one of the reasons that
make this walk so spectacular. From above the falls enjoy the splendid
view back towards Ingleton.

Then came the tricky bit. My map told me left. Jim's told him right.
Jim being one of the insomniac's I had bumped into over a coffee. We
took the advice of mine, due to the fact that his was 5 or 6 years out
of date. We turned down a beautiful grassy lane with ravishing views
over swathes of green pasture. We then passed by a small tea shop
advertising 'the best cuppa in the Dales'.
Or it would have been had we not been in March. And closed.

Jim had now permanently borrowed my guide to navigate us to safety. It
is a very good trail for signposts and from this point onward, we were
shepherded by little white signs.
We were now escalating down a lane that led through the farmyard. Cue,
second fall. It was funnier because Kerry, Jim's beguiled girlfriend,
who hadn't put on a pair of boots, was in the puddle with me.

We now passed another silent little river, the Doe. On the doe are more
splendid little falls that contrive most of the trail.

This footpath met the residential road, which leads into town. We
turned back over the river and past the marvellous church I had
previously visited.

I was almost refused entry when I arrived back at the hostel. Though I
did manage to persuade them the mud had dried.

This is a walk that must be done more than once to reap the full
splendours of it.