Red Light District of Amsterdam

Wed. June 14^th, 2023 Red Light District of Amsterdam

       We arose early at 5. A.M. A cappuccino in the room prepped us for the day. Our Pal, Brahm picked us up at 9:15 A.M. We were headed for one of the more colorful districts in Amsterdam, “Die Wallen,” the famed “red light district.” We were headed for a delightful breakfast emporium, “Madam’s Pancakes,” at 18 Lange Niezel. Brahm got us as close in to the district as he could. We hiked in after that. The narrow streets were crowded with honkey-tonk bars, sex shops and all manner of fast food places. The night before must have been pretty rowdy. The streets were still littered with plastic cups and assorted detritus of revelry. The area is the oldest of Amsterdam’s neighborhoods, dating back to the 14^th century. Sailors from ships used to come here “looking for companionship.” Today, prostitution is legal here and all of the practitioners are medically tested twice  a week. Prices for services rendered are negotiable.

         Madam’s Pancakes was clean and elegant. We enjoyed pancakes with lox and blueberries, with good coffee. The tab was a reasonable 32 euros. From Madam’s, we walked down the narrow cobble stone lanes, until we came to the broad boulevard of the Canal that divided the district. It is here that most of the trade’s practitioners display themselves in the evening. At this time of day, we could but see broad curtained windows, along the second stories of stone-faced buildings. Tourists like us were walking up and down the streets, ogling the curtained windows and imagining what went on there in the evening hours. The guide books advise not to go here at night. Hooligans, pickpockets and riff raff abound, as seekers of services shop for their wares. We sat along the canal and watched the throngs walk hither and yon. The swirl of languages was interesting. French, Spanish, English, German and a host of others that I didn’t recognize, tickled our ears. 

        Wikipedia defines the area thusly: Red Light District clubs and pubs

The Amsterdam Red Light District is not only about prostitution and coffee shops. You can find a great variety of sex shops, peep shows, strip clubs, sex theaters and typical Dutch brown cafes. Furthermore, you have a few cultural activities such as the Museum of Prostitution, the Museum of Erotism or the Museum of Cannabis.

       Whether you are window-shopping Amsterdam style, or actually wanting to buy something, there is likely to be a place, window, or even two, that cater to your every whim. For those not easily offended, there are plenty of live sex shows and the most notorious of these go on at the theatres Casa Rosso (OZ Achterburgwal) and the infamous Moulin Rouge (Oudezijds Achterburgwal 5-7). For the merely curious, there are numerous peep shows that may come with video booths. 

        But of course, for the more adventurous among us, there are more interactive shows, for example at Amsterdam Banana Bar (Oudezijds Achterburgwal 37). Exactly what goes on in these places is up to you to discover, if you so wish. For goods, there is a somewhat eclectic mix of videos, magazines, sex aids and toys. The RLD is also home to many gay bars and cinemas which can be found on the very busy Warmoesstraat. If the Red light alleyways are not your cup of tea, there are a number of brothels and private houses that offer a more traditional form of prostitution.

        From the Red Light District, we walked up to Palace Square. Throngs of tourist were everywhere about. Mary spotted a T.J. Max store and felt obligated to stop in and shop. I sat nearby, fascinated as always by the crowds swirling by. The nearby Central station was abuzz with activity. We picked up a sparkling water at Starbuck’s and then sat along the banks of the Amstel River, watching the water traffic and the flows of people all around us. It was in the high seventies (F), sunny and pleasant.

     A cab ferried us from the Central Station to the Aalder hotel. I wrote up my notes and we conferred with the patron saint of naps, Mr. Ozzie Nelson. Later that afternoon, we walked up and down the very chic Pieter Corneliez Stroomen. Gucci, Rolex,  Dolce Gabanna, and a dozen other fancy shops gave a good, expensive rendition of Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills or the Rue Honore' in Paris.

     The lovely “Burger Room” was only a few blocks over. We revisited this lovely cafe and enjoyed a meal as good as the one we had a few days before. (56 euros) After our meal, we sat for a time in the Van Gogh Plaza and watched the people show, enjoying the cool of the evening. It was getting late and we still had to pack up and get ready to move on the morrow.

      A vodka martini settled me in, as we packed up and got ready to head out. It had been a wonderful stay in a very old and interesting City, but it was time for us to move on.

Thursday, June 15^th, 2023- Amsterdam. Netherlands.

     We were up at 6 A.M. We finished packing our clothes, enjoyed a coffee and pastry in the room and got ready to head out. Faithful Brahm picked us up at 11:15 A.M. and delivered us to the waterfront section of Amsterdam, where the Viking ship Vali was tethered. We checked our bags in with the ship’s attendants. They led us onboard to our second deck stateroom, number 335. We unpacked our gear and then wandered down to the first deck dining room. A light lunch of pasta and a glass of decent Riesling gave promise of a wonderful gustatory experience ahead.

      After lunch, we walked along the Amstel, to the Central Station and found a drug store for medications. The many barges and river traffic are always a delightful parade of nautical interest. Back on board, we settled in on the room’s balcony and enjoyed a glass of cote du Rhone.  A 5:30 P.M. get-together, in the ship’s lounge, introduced us to crew and passengers. Then at 7 P.M. the entire ships compliment was seated in the first deck dining room. We enjoyed a Caesar salad, some delightful Halibut, with a cream sauce, and a wonderful apple strudel with a warm vanilla sauce. Both a red cabernet and a white Riesling were available.

         By sheer chance, we were seated with two remarkable couples, that we were to bond with over the next fourteen days. Wayne and Vicki Broyles, from the eastern shore of Maryland and Carla and Renzo Panazza, from Sydney Australia. We were to share dinner, laughs and interesting conversation with these estimable people for the next fourteen days. We would come away with a bond of friendship and an appreciation of the wit, humor and intelligence of these fine people. They would much enhance our journey across Europe.

                                   -30-

                             (1,165 words)

                           Joseph Xavier Martin