Upper Duoro River, near Castle Rodrigo
By jxmartin
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Thursday, June 19,2025- motoring along the upper Duoro River
We had our usual early breakfast, talking with people who were now becoming our friends. Afterward, we wandered topside to watch the scenery. The hillsides in the area are rocky and eroded. There are signs of heavy run off, down through the narrow ravines, originating in the Mountains to the north of us.
A 10 A.M. lesson, on Marenca dancing, didn’t attract us. We sat and enjoyed the visage in the crisp river air. We passed through two smaller locks and under one bridge, where everyone had to sit topside. The clearance was that close. A light rain chased us all indoors. We again passed on lunch.
The group was assembling for a 1:30 P.M departure for a visit to Castle Rodrigo. I was advised that the terrain was too steep for me to walk, so I passed on the tour. Mary’s account of the trip is as follows:
It was a fifty-minute bus ride into the first small town of Figuera del Rodrigo. About 5,000 inhabitants call the area home. The area around it is filled with Olive groves, a few wine vineyards, some almond and “Cork Trees groves.” All of these products had to be hand harvested, because of the steepness of the terrain in which they grew.
Further along, the visitors came to the fallen down edifice called “Castle Rodrigo.” The actual castle lay in ruins. The 58 local residents had chosen not to restore it, because it was considered a “traitor’s castle.” The Lord only knows what tales are attached to that story and reputation. Villagers have long memories. In the surrounding town, a few churches competed with gift stores and other vendors of cork, almonds and olives. The housing stock in the area wasn’t exactly deluxe. It was late afternoon and the tourers had to get back to the ship.
Back aboard the Duoro Cruiser, I had caught a brief nap and was reading and enjoying a cappuccino in the lounge. I was joined by Jerry Bussey. We chatted for a bit and debated on the relative wisdom of hammering a few drinks before dinner. We thought it wiser to wait.
The tour bus made its way back to the ship, arriving at 6:30 P.M. Everyone scrambled to get ready for dinner at 7:30 P.M. A seafood appetizer and potato soup was followed by a local variety of white “Hake Fish” in sauce. The capper was a sinful strawberry cake dessert. It made the wait worth-while. The tasty red wine, served liberally, much enhanced the various conversations.
After dinner, a troup of local Flamenco dancers, robed in colorful costumes and accompanied by a band of musicians, performed their stylized ritual dances for us in the lounge. It had been another interesting day on the River Duoro, in Northern Portugal.
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(479 Words)
Joseph Xavier Martin
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