Lisbon, Portugal Tour

Monday, June 16^th, Lisbon, Portugal

         We arose early. Sleep disruption, on tours and crossing vast distances in short periods of time,  is common. At 6:30 A.M, we enjoyed a nice breakfast in the lobby dining area. Omelets, lox and cheeses, with cappuccinos, made for a tasty start for the day.

           Our 8:30 A.M tour of Lisbon assembled in the lobby and filed into two buses. Maria, our talkative and informative guide, would lead us for the day. She pointed out the multi colored tiles on building exteriors as we drove through the city. Some mosaic friezes were crafted  in pictorial designs that caught the eye. A rainbow effect on a tiled tunnel wall was particularly attractive.

            Lisbon was a military fortification first founded by the Phoenecians as a trading center, and then conquered by the Romans in 200 B.C.  St. George’s castle, the original fort sat atop one of the area’s seven hills and guarded the entrance from the Tagus River. Blooming Jacaranda trees had been introduced to the area in 1306. They flowered in a delightful shade of pink for us today.

            The city had evolved under a variety of cultures. First built by the Phoenicians, then conquered by the Romans, the Moors had ruled the city for five centuries from the 8th through the 13th centuries. 

               Over run by the moors, the French and others, Portugal’s first King John (Jao) in the 1300’s had forever cemented the new countries relationship with Great Britain, by marrying Countess Phillipa of Lancashire, England.

            Maria, our guide, was lively and informative. She told us that the modern bridge, that we could view crossing the Tagus, is the 'April the 25th Bridge.' Its name had been changed to commemorate the founding of the modern Portuguese Republic and the fall of dictator Antonio Salazar in 1974. Portugal had been a dictatorship from 1947-1974 under the repressive Salazar. The city had evolved under a variety of cultures. First built by the Phoenicians, then conquered by the Romans, the Moors had ruled the city for five centuries from the 8th through the 13th centuries. 

     The Tagus River splits this modern city of 150,000 souls. A huge statue of Christ the King, some 110 meters tall, stands on the far bluff of the river, dominating the harbor's entrance.  It is a copy of the statue standing over Rio De Janero in Brazil, and was built to commemorate the city being spared destruction during W.W.II.  Portugal was officially neutral during the conflict and was the site of much international intrigue on the part of all warring participants.  Broad parkland now occupies the River front area. A section of old warehouses, called the 'docks,' has been converted to trendy boutiques and bistros. It is the center of nightlife, for the young, in Lisbon.

      The city had been razed by a mighty earthquake in 1775.  'Common Square' had been built to commemorate the city's restoration. There is another bridge that crosses the Tagus, further down the river. Its span is 18 kilometers long. The Portuguese claim that it is the longest suspension bridge in Europe. It had been named for Vasco De Gamma, the famous Portuguese explorer, who had rounded the Cape of Good Hope in Africa and opened up the orient to European commercial interests.

      Our bus first stopped at a small parkland next to a four-story, turreted battlement called 'Belem.' (Portuguese for Bethlehem) Built in 1517-1521, it is a small castle that had once occupied the center of the Tagus River and served as a means of defense. Siltation had filled in one side of the River in the 1800’s. Now, it is an attractive tourist Mecca. Today, it was covered in scaffolding, as restoration continues on the ancient structure.

       A bronzed biplane stands nearby on a pedestal. It commemorates the flight of two early Portuguese aviators who had first flown across the Southern Atlantic, to Portuguese Brazil. We took photos of everything not moving, during the quick photo op, and then reboarded the bus. We were headed just several hundred yards down the Tagus, to the        'Discoverer's Monument.' The sun was shining, the day was warming and the sky was a bright azure, pleasing to look at. A gentle zephyr from the ocean cooled us in the heat.

      The Discovery Monument was Built in 1962, to commemorate the fifth centennial of the death of Portugal's' Prince Henry the Navigator, The Discoveries monument also pays tribute to the many classes of Portuguese who had aided in the discovery of new lands across the globe. The huge stone monument is shaped like the white marble prow of a ship. Along either side, are 20-foot stone statues of clerks, clergy, navigators, queens and kings, sailors, artisans and every other group of people who had supported the exploration. At the middle of the prow stands Prince Henry the navigator, the main force behind much of Portugal's early discoveries. A stone relief map of the world lies in front of the monument, giving perspective to the distances that this tiny country had sent its explorers. It is all larger than life and impressive to see and experience.

     The waterfront portions of the city are dominated by broad tree-lined boulevards, with immaculate park areas and monuments sprinkled along the way. As the bus threaded its way through the narrower back streets, of the older sections, we saw a seedier and more worn visage of this older city. Potemkin Village is the phrase that comes to mind.

      Next, we stopped at the massive, walled  edifice that is the monastery of St. Jerome.  It was closed on Mondays, so we scattered to shops selling their famous lemon custards. (Pasteis de Belem) They are made from an original recipe used at the Monastery in 1837. Maria said they now bake 30,000 of these delights daily and send them everywhere. Together with a bottle of water, it made for a refreshing repast in the noon day sun. I include this description of the monastery from a previous visit that Mary and I had made here.

      Construction of the monastery started in 1502. It wasn't completed until one hundred years later. The massive stone walls and huge entrance portals showed signs of aging. It had been occupied by an order of monks until late in the 1800's. Now, it is a world Heritage museum. 

     The interior is what you might expect, a set from an old Hollywood movie of a medieval monastery. The chapel is both ornate and well stocked with religious icons and much gold-leafed statuary. The wealth of the new world had been poured into this property of the church. The interior, two-story courtyard is still well preserved. Around its periphery are many examples of skilled, tiled friezes, depicting pastoral scenery in the delft blue tiles. It is a color and style that one usually associates with the Netherlands. Perhaps the artisans had been imported or trained the local counterparts in their craft. A large, carved-stone relief tomb is the supposed resting place of the explorer Vasco de Gama. Everyone now agrees that it is a 'Washington once slept here' type of claim, much like Spain's determined association with Christopher Columbus.

           It was 98 degrees out as we finished up the tour and were ferried back to the hotel. Mary and I read for a time and then caught a cat nap. Diane and Barry had suggested  a restaurant nearby for dinner. “Bonzini’s” is a small bistro, with a dozen tables in a small bar area. The barman spoke flawless English. He said he had been studying English since he was five years old. He also had a great personality.  He recommended a “Pacheco” red wine, that was smooth, dry and tasty. An absolutely wonderful Caesar salad, loaded with fresh shrimp, and accompanied by some fresh grain bread and olive oil was wonderful. ($40 Euros incl. tip.) This place was a great find. Thanks Barry and Diane.

          It was windy and still very warm as we walked back to the hotel. We had a “bags in the hall order” for 7 A.M. so we repaired to our room to read and surrender to the sandman. It has been a nice visit to an attractive city.

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                                                 (1.369 words)

                                           Joseph Xavier Martin